Bakuchiol: What One Clinical Study Actually Proved

Not “clinically proven.” Not “scientifically backed.” One study, 44 people, 12 weeks. Here’s exactly what happened — and why it matters more than you might expect.

Every brand in the age-defence space uses the same language. “Clinically proven.” “Scientifically backed.” “Dermatologist recommended.” The phrases are designed to create confidence without requiring you to ask a single follow-up question.

We’d rather you ask the questions. Because the honest version of the bakuchiol story is more interesting than the marketing version — and once you hear it, you’ll understand exactly why this ingredient is in our Retinol Alternative Serum and what you can genuinely expect from it.

What Is Bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol (pronounced bah-KOO-chee-ol) is a meroterpene — a naturally occurring compound found primarily in the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant, known as babchi in traditional Indian medicine. The plant has been used in Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicine for centuries, though its application to skin health in the Western sense is relatively recent.

What makes bakuchiol interesting to dermatological researchers isn’t its traditional heritage — it’s that it appears to deliver measurable improvements in the same skin concerns that retinol addresses (wrinkles, pigmentation, firmness), but through a different molecular pathway. This isn’t marketing language. It’s the specific finding that prompted the study we’re about to walk through.

The Study: Exactly What Was Tested

In 2019, a team of researchers from universities across California, Michigan, Florida, and Pennsylvania published a prospective, randomised, double-blind study in the British Journal of Dermatology — one of the most respected peer-reviewed journals in dermatology. The lead author was S. Dhaliwal, from the Department of Dermatology at the University of California, Davis.

Here is precisely what they did:

44 healthy participants with a mean age of 47 years were randomly assigned to one of two groups. One group applied 0.5% bakuchiol cream to their full face twice daily. The other group applied 0.5% retinol cream to their full face once daily (at night). The study ran for 12 weeks, with assessments at 0, 4, 8, and 12 weeks. A board-certified dermatologist, blinded to group assignments, graded the results.

Two things to notice about the protocol before we look at the results.

First, the dosing was different — bakuchiol twice daily, retinol once daily. This isn’t a flaw in the study. Retinol is typically limited to once-daily nighttime use because it degrades in sunlight and can increase photosensitivity. Bakuchiol is stable in sunlight and doesn’t carry the same photosensitivity risk, so it can be applied morning and evening. The study compared the two ingredients as they would actually be used in practice — which is arguably more useful than a controlled same-dose comparison that wouldn’t reflect real-world usage.

Second, the sample size: 44 participants. That’s small. It’s significant enough to detect meaningful differences, but it’s not a 500-person multi-centre trial. We’ll come back to what that means.

The Results

Both groups showed statistically significant improvements in wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation over the 12 weeks. When the researchers compared the two groups, there was no statistically significant difference between bakuchiol and retinol in either measure. Both worked. Neither worked detectably better than the other.

The difference was in tolerance. The retinol group reported significantly more facial skin scaling and stinging. The bakuchiol group did not report these side effects.

The study’s conclusion, in the researchers’ own framing: “bakuchiol is comparable with retinol in its ability to improve photoageing and is better tolerated than retinol.”

That’s the finding. One study. 44 people. 12 weeks. Published in one of the most respected journals in the field. Not “clinically proven” — which implies certainty that no single study can deliver. Not “backed by science” — which implies a body of evidence that doesn’t yet exist at this scale. One well-designed study with a specific, measurable, positive result.

We think that’s enough to be genuinely interesting. And we think being precise about what it is — and isn’t — respects your intelligence more than a vague claim ever could.

How Bakuchiol Works — A Different Pathway

To understand why the Dhaliwal study result matters, it helps to understand how retinol works and why bakuchiol’s approach is different.

Retinol is a form of vitamin A. When applied to the skin, it’s converted through a series of enzymatic steps into retinoic acid — the active form that binds to nuclear receptors in skin cells and triggers changes in gene expression. Those changes include increased collagen production, accelerated cell turnover, and reduced melanin synthesis. Retinol is effective. It’s also decades deep in research — no other topical ingredient for age-defence has a stronger evidence base.

The trade-off is its side-effect profile. Retinoic acid thins the stratum corneum (your skin’s outermost protective layer), increases photosensitivity (making sun protection even more critical), and commonly causes scaling, dryness, redness, and stinging — particularly in the first weeks of use. These effects are well-documented, expected, and manageable, but they’re real.

Bakuchiol appears to stimulate some of the same beneficial changes — collagen gene expression, improvements in pigmentation — without converting to retinoic acid and without engaging the same nuclear receptor pathway that retinol uses. Early research described bakuchiol as a “functional analogue” of retinol, meaning it achieves similar outcomes through different molecular machinery. More recent research suggests bakuchiol may work through entirely different molecular targets — including mitochondrial proteins — rather than simply mimicking retinoid pathways.

The full picture of how bakuchiol works at the molecular level is still being mapped. That’s an honest statement, not a caveat. The Dhaliwal study showed it works clinically. The mechanism research is ongoing. Both of those things can be true simultaneously.

What we can say with confidence: bakuchiol does not thin the stratum corneum, does not increase photosensitivity, and can be used twice daily including in the morning — none of which is true for retinol. For a man who spends time outdoors — running, cycling, working on site, or simply commuting — the absence of increased sun sensitivity from a product designed to support his skin’s ageing process is a meaningful practical advantage.

What Bakuchiol Does for Your Skin

Based on the published research, bakuchiol’s documented effects include:

Collagen support. Bakuchiol has been shown to stimulate the expression of collagen genes — specifically types I and III, the structural proteins responsible for skin firmness and elasticity. Collagen production in men declines steadily from the mid-twenties. It’s a gradual process, not a cliff edge, but by forty the cumulative decline is measurable. An ingredient that supports collagen gene expression addresses this trajectory directly.

Pigmentation improvement. The Dhaliwal study found significant improvements in hyperpigmentation — uneven skin tone, dark spots, areas of increased melanin production. Research suggests bakuchiol inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin synthesis. For men whose skin shows signs of sun exposure from years of outdoor activity, this is relevant.

Antioxidant protection. Retinol increases skin’s sensitivity to UV radiation, which in turn increases vulnerability to UV-generated free radical damage. Bakuchiol does the opposite — it functions as an antioxidant, neutralising free radicals rather than leaving skin more exposed to them. This is one of the reasons it doesn’t carry the same initial irritation profile and can be used in the morning without the photosensitivity concerns that limit retinol to nighttime use.

Tolerance. In the Dhaliwal study, the bakuchiol group reported no significant scaling or stinging. This matters practically because an ingredient you can’t tolerate is an ingredient you stop using. The most effective product in the world is worthless if it sits unused in the cabinet because it made your skin uncomfortable for the first three weeks.

Why This Matters for Men Specifically

Men’s skin has characteristics that make bakuchiol a particularly interesting ingredient.

Men’s skin is approximately 25% thicker than women’s, with a denser dermis that contains more collagen per unit area when young. But collagen decline is steady and cumulative from the mid-twenties — and because men’s skin starts with more, the gradual loss can go unnoticed longer. By the time a man in his forties notices changes in firmness or elasticity, the process has been underway for nearly two decades.

Men produce approximately 40% more sebum than women, and that production stays elevated throughout life rather than declining with age. Higher sebum means oilier skin — and retinol’s drying, scaling side effects can create an uncomfortable combination with already oil-active skin. Bakuchiol’s absence of these side effects makes it more compatible with the way men’s skin actually behaves.

Most men have never used a retinoid. They haven’t been through the “retinisation” period — the weeks of peeling, sensitivity, and discomfort that retinol users typically experience before their skin acclimatises. Bakuchiol doesn’t require an adjustment period. It can be introduced into a routine without disruption, without a learning curve, without the experience of your skin getting worse before it gets better.

And practically: retinol’s photosensitivity effect creates a tension for any man who spends meaningful time in daylight. An age-defence ingredient that requires extra sun precaution is a trade-off. Bakuchiol doesn’t ask for that trade-off.

The Honest Caveats

We’ve been precise about the evidence throughout this article, and we’ll be precise about its limits too.

One comparative study. The Dhaliwal study remains the most widely cited published, randomised, double-blind trial directly comparing bakuchiol to retinol for facial photoageing. One well-designed study published in a top-tier journal is meaningful — but it is not the same as a body of evidence. Retinol has decades of research across hundreds of studies and thousands of participants. Bakuchiol’s clinical evidence base, while growing, is not comparable in volume.

44 participants. A sample of 44 is large enough to detect statistically significant differences, but it’s small enough that the findings should be considered promising rather than definitive. Larger studies would strengthen the evidence considerably.

Mechanism still being mapped. Unlike retinol, whose molecular pathway is thoroughly understood, bakuchiol’s precise mechanism of action is still under investigation. We know it works clinically. We don’t yet have a complete picture of exactly how at the molecular level. That’s not unusual for a relatively new research subject, but it’s worth acknowledging.

Not a replacement for prescription retinoids. For men with significant photodamage or specific dermatological conditions, prescription-strength retinoids (tretinoin, adapalene) offer a level of evidence and efficacy that bakuchiol — based on current research — cannot match. Bakuchiol is a cosmetic ingredient for age-defence, not a medical treatment.

These caveats don’t diminish the Dhaliwal finding. They contextualise it. And a man who understands both the finding and its context is better equipped to make an informed decision than a man who’s been told “clinically proven” and asked no further questions.

How We Use Bakuchiol

Our Retinol Alternative Serum is an oil-based formula with bakuchiol as its featured active ingredient, set in a base of organic jojoba oil, evening primrose oil, and rosehip oil — each chosen for specific contributions to skin barrier support and essential fatty acid supply. The full INCI list is published with a plain-language explanation for every ingredient, because that’s how we do things.

It’s part of the Father’s Day Edit — three products designed to introduce a man to a skin health routine without overwhelming him. The Clarifying Gel starts the routine. The Age-Defence Day Cream provides daily protection. The Retinol Alternative Serum is the education piece — the product that makes him curious enough to read the label, understand the ingredient, and start paying attention to what he’s putting on his skin.

She bought the introduction. He’ll take it from there.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol is a naturally occurring meroterpene compound found primarily in the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It has been shown in clinical research to deliver improvements in wrinkles and pigmentation comparable to retinol, with significantly fewer side effects. It is not a form of vitamin A and works through a different molecular pathway than retinoids.

Is bakuchiol as effective as retinol?

One published clinical study — Dhaliwal et al., British Journal of Dermatology, 2019, 44 participants — found no statistically significant difference between 0.5% bakuchiol (applied twice daily) and 0.5% retinol (applied once daily) in improving wrinkles and pigmentation over 12 weeks. The bakuchiol group had significantly fewer side effects. However, retinol has a much larger body of clinical evidence accumulated over decades.

Can bakuchiol be used in the morning?

Yes. Unlike retinol, bakuchiol is stable in sunlight and does not increase photosensitivity. It can be applied both morning and evening. Daily sun protection is still recommended regardless of which age-defence ingredients you use.

Does bakuchiol cause irritation?

In the Dhaliwal study, the bakuchiol group reported no significant scaling or stinging, while the retinol group experienced both. Bakuchiol does not thin the stratum corneum (the skin’s outermost protective layer) the way retinol does. Individual reactions are always possible, but the published evidence suggests bakuchiol is well tolerated.

Is bakuchiol safe for sensitive skin?

Based on available evidence, bakuchiol’s tolerance profile makes it a reasonable option for men with reactive or sensitive skin who want age-defence benefits without the irritation commonly associated with retinol. Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties may be particularly compatible with sensitivity-prone skin. As with any new product, a patch test before full application is sensible.

How is bakuchiol different from retinol?

Retinol is a form of vitamin A that converts to retinoic acid in the skin and works through nuclear retinoid receptors. Bakuchiol achieves similar outcomes — collagen stimulation, pigmentation improvement — through a different molecular pathway that does not involve retinoic acid conversion. Key practical differences: bakuchiol can be used twice daily, doesn’t increase sun sensitivity, doesn’t thin the stratum corneum, and doesn’t cause the “retinisation” period of peeling and sensitivity that retinol commonly does.

What concentration of bakuchiol is effective?

The Dhaliwal study used 0.5% bakuchiol, applied twice daily, and found it effective for improving wrinkles and pigmentation over 12 weeks. This is currently the concentration level with the strongest clinical support.

This article is part of Homme’s commitment to skin health education and ingredient transparency. Every claim above is sourced from published, peer-reviewed research. We’ve linked the study so you can read it yourself — because the honest version is always more interesting than the marketing version.